How a Suit Should Fit a Man

When assessing the fit of a men’s suit, one should consider the features of each garment.

Pants

The pants should fit comfortably around the waist and hips. Whiskering around the zipper and hip creases indicates the trousers are too tight or that the rise is too low. Bunching fabric is a sign the rise is too large.

The pant legs may be cut to a slim fit or a straight fit, but one should be mindful of their build. Pants that are too wide for the body will look sloppy.

The bottom of the trousers should fall to the top of the shoes’ heel when measured from the back. This length allows a small break across the front of the trousers. If one prefers, pants can have a larger break, to the bottom of the heel, as well, but any longer than that is undesirable.

Pant cuffs and pleats can be worn at one’s discretion. Pleats add visual bulk, so we recommend flat-front trousers.

Jacket

The most important measurement for a jacket is how it fits across the shoulders. This is also the most complex area to alter.

The jacket shoulder seams should not extend past the shoulders. If the garment’s shoulders are too wide, the fabric will dimple between the seam and the wearer’s shoulder.

If a jacket is too tight across the shoulders, the wearer will be unable to comfortably cross his arms at shoulder height.

When looking at the back of the jacket, the collar should fit snugly to the wearer’s shirt collar. When the back length of a jacket is too short for the wearer, the jacket’s collar will gape, showing too much of the shirt. When the back length is too long, the extra fabric will create a roll in the back shoulders, between the shoulders and the neck. This is where a person’s posture matters when creating a custom suit.

A suit jacket should extend from the nape of the neck to the bottom of the crotch when measured from the back. This length maximizes the visual length of the legs and the torso. The tailor will also measure the front length of a jacket to ensure the jacket lays evenly in the front and the back.

A jacket’s sleeves should extend half an inch past the wrist’s pisiform bone (the one that sticks up). The shirt’s cuff should extend a further half inch, peeking out from beneath the sleeve.

As a family law attorney, making a first impression is crucial. We are always meeting new clients, opposing counsel, judges and witnesses and how we appear can have a huge impact. The shirts and other custom items Ken Sharma has delivered help our attorneys appear their best. All of the attorneys at KSS Family Law are proud to wear clothes made by Atlanta Custom Tailors.

Randall M. Kessler, ESQ Founder, KSS Family Law